花蓮港口部落野味 te’nas 野廚陳耀忠

已經多久沒眺望太平洋,在浪花拍打中,海蝕溝渠的孔縫,採食似熟悉又陌生的貝殼與海膽,一轉身,岩石潮間帶上的牡蠣個頭不大,瞇著雙眼對抗炙熱豔陽,我現學現賣海女技巧,用力敲打兩下再撬開蚵殼,輕巧以手指抓起牡蠣肉,沾滿碎殼也不要緊,一個浪打上來,滿池海水就是我的涮洗鍋,立刻一口吃下這鮮鹹海味;

「吃一口大海,野一下靈魂。」

變採邊吃未免顯得忙碌,低頭一看,手中的採集罐空空如也,無法交差可不行,任性的找海女求援,不勞而獲幾顆貝殼,心滿意足歸隊入山,繼續學習阿美族港口部落的傳統醃漬,辣椒、海鹽、水,做成 te’nas 傳統沾醬,當然,不忘再偷吃幾顆貝殼。

血桐葉盤、竹筒碗杯,拋下規矩和束縛,海味山珍有多野?舀一鐵鍋的海水,就地升火,在茅草棚下煮鹽,粗獷不修邊幅的海男身上矯健補一尾鬼頭刀,現流剝皮去刺,抹上刺蔥海鹽,掛上棚架,曬起一夜干;

另一頭,迷你山苦瓜、山菜等蔬菜備齊,魚鮮也準備就緒,小火堆內的海石燒到滾燙,一聲令下,丟入竹筒「鍋」,才一回神,橘紅大蝦登台實在惹人注目,太搶眼的色澤彷彿點亮海蝕平台幾盞燈;

風起風落,在毫無遮蔽的岸上,遠眺野廚躡手躡腳靠近魚群,小跟班在後頭一樣不敢出聲,連呼吸都是種罪惡,撒網自然落下,一尾鸚哥魚入袋,午餐能加菜了;

嚮導美麗姐姐說覺得熱的時候,只要輕輕吹口哨,氣緩綿長,稱30秒,大自然會回應,我努力感覺風的方向,好像真的涼爽一點?(其實是隔壁的人吹口哨的氣息吧?!欸!過去一點啦!)嘻嘻哈哈笑看太平洋;

#海人野廚 從豐濱的 #港口部落 拉開序幕,6月份曾經辦了一場實驗餐會,試營運的概念,8月連續三天就玩真的,野廚跟部落長老借了濱海梯田,在族人經常休息的水蜜桃海蝕洞旁,說是餐會,更像是一場文化實驗,部落和客人彼此理解的過程。

Do you remember your last visit at the beach? I mean … not the soft and cozy sandy beach but the wild and crazy rocky one. I had the chance visiting Hualien, Taiwan last Sunday to join a “back to the root” kind of project organized by local aboriginals.

We were led to the shore and being taught how to harvest from the sea. Oyster, my favorite was my target for sure. I learned from local woman and tried my best. Ah! The taste of the sea!

How would you picture tribe food? To be honest, i learned a little from history class but well …. really limited. I was given a cut of bamboo as my cup for the day and we used tree leave as plate for the bread. The other side of the shore, a local guy was boiling water to make it sea salt.

If you are hungry … go hunt your own food! For example to catch a fish! Put some salt and special plants on top of your harvest … hmmmm taste like heaven. The aboriginal doesn’t eat everything raw so by heating up rocks … we cooked seafood soup and vegetables. How amazing!

The aboriginal people honor mother land and nature. You eat what you harvest from the sea and the mountain. We were standing far from the shore witnessing how local people fishing. One at a time and no more than what you really need.

This is not just an event for outsiders to experience the daily life of the tribe but also an experiment for inner tribe young kids.

#海人野廚 #星級主廚宛點名 #welcometothetable

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